"Hollow to hem" is a measurement used in the garment industry, particularly in pattern making and sewing, to denote the total length of a garment from the hollow of the neck (or armhole for sleeveless garments) to the hemline. Understanding this measurement is crucial for achieving a well-fitting and properly proportioned garment. It's a key dimension used by both professional designers and home sewers alike. This guide will delve deeper into what this measurement entails, its applications, and how it differs from other garment measurements.
What exactly does "hollow" refer to?
The term "hollow" in "hollow to hem" refers to the deepest point of the neckline or armhole curve. For garments with sleeves, the measurement is taken from the hollow of the neckline. For sleeveless tops or dresses, the measurement starts from the deepest point of the armhole. This point is crucial because it represents the natural curve of the body and ensures the garment sits correctly.
Why is the hollow point important for accurate measurements?
The hollow point acts as the starting point for accurately determining the overall length of the garment. Measuring from this point, rather than a less precise point like the shoulder, prevents the garment from being too short or too long. This is especially critical for fitted garments where the precise length is essential for achieving a flattering silhouette.
How to measure hollow to hem
Measuring hollow to hem requires accuracy. Here's a step-by-step guide:
- Identify the Hollow Point: Locate the deepest point of your neckline (or armhole for sleeveless garments).
- Use a Flexible Measuring Tape: A flexible measuring tape is essential to accurately follow the curves of the body.
- Measure Straight Down: Keeping the tape taut, extend it from the hollow point straight down to the desired hemline.
- Record the Measurement: Record the measurement in inches or centimeters.
How is hollow to hem used in garment construction?
The hollow to hem measurement is fundamental in several aspects of garment construction:
- Pattern Making: It's a critical measurement used in creating sewing patterns. Accurate hollow-to-hem measurements ensure the pattern pieces are correctly sized, allowing for a proper fit.
- Grading: This measurement is crucial in grading patterns to different sizes. Proper grading requires consistent changes in the hollow to hem measurement based on the size scale.
- Fitting: During the fitting process, the hollow-to-hem measurement helps assess the length of the garment and make necessary adjustments.
- Customization: For custom-made garments, this measurement is essential in ensuring the final product fits the individual perfectly.
How does hollow to hem differ from other garment measurements?
While hollow to hem measures the overall length, other measurements such as shoulder to hem or high point shoulder to hem provide different length references. Shoulder to hem is a less precise measurement, often not accounting for the natural curve of the body at the neckline. High point shoulder to hem might be preferred when creating garments with specific shoulder details, but it doesn’t capture the overall length as effectively as hollow to hem.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What if I'm making a dress with a high neckline?
For high necklines, the "hollow" point will be less pronounced. Carefully locate the deepest point of the neckline curve and measure from there. You may need to adjust your pattern to accommodate the different neckline style.
How important is accuracy when measuring hollow to hem?
Accuracy is paramount. A small error in the hollow to hem measurement can significantly impact the final garment's fit, leading to an ill-fitting garment that may be too short or too long.
Can I use this measurement for all types of garments?
Yes, this measurement is applicable to most types of garments, including dresses, tops, shirts, and even some outerwear. However, the specific starting point (neckline hollow or armhole hollow) will vary depending on the garment style.
How do I adjust the hollow to hem measurement if the garment is too long or too short?
Adjustments can be made to the pattern pieces. If the garment is too long, shorten the pattern piece along the length. If it’s too short, lengthen the pattern piece. A professional pattern maker can provide tailored adjustments.
By understanding the meaning and application of the "hollow to hem" measurement, both seasoned sewers and beginners can significantly improve their garment construction skills and create well-fitting and beautifully proportioned garments. Precision and attention to detail are key when using this essential measurement.
